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How to “print” on ceramic ornaments without a sublimation printer!

Printed Ornaments

How to “print” on ceramic ornaments without a sublimation printer

by: Dezartisan



I purchased the paper at Amazon here:


Design used was Christmas Clan by: Clean Cut Creative



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How to make a wood sign without a stencil

How to make a wood sign without a stencil

by: Dezartisan


You’ve all seen the wood sign craze! Framed, unframed, painted etc. But what if you don’t have the ability to do framed signs or you just haven’t gotten the hang of not getting the dreaded bleed lines when painting a stencil. Well here is a quick tutorial on how you can achieve this look and bonus, it’s fairly inexpensive to do!



  • Wood Block sanded
  • Acrylic Paint
  • Baby Wipes
  • White tissue paper – the kind you stuff in a gift bag
  • Tape
  • Acrylic Sealer Spray
  • Modge Podge
  • Foam brush
  • Cardstock
  • Printer – any inkjet
  • Fine grit sandpaper
  • SVG Design of your choice. I used VV139 – you can find it HERE


  1. Sand your wood block
  2. For this project, I wanted the wood grain to show, so I squirted the acrylic paint onto a baby wipe and rubbed it into the wood going with the grain. You can also just paint the wood block completely if you prefer a less transparent look. Let dry completely.
  3. While this is drying – look through your hoard of designs for one that will fit the size of your wood block.
  4. Cut a piece of tissue paper larger than a 8 1/2″ x 11″ cardstock.

5. Fold the tissue paper over the cardstock nice and tight – making sure that edges will not lift up when running through a printer. I used Washi tape here so you could see how I taped it.

6. Next you will want to take your design and place a box around it the same size as your wood block. Make the box a very light grey – just enough that you can see it. Print the design using the standard settings of your printer.

7. Once printed carefully remove the tissue paper from the cardstock and cut out on the grey lines your design.

8. Let the tissue paper print dry completely before the next step. THIS IS IMPERATIVE.

9. Paint the wood block with a very very very thin layer of modge podge and immediately place your design on top. Carefully smooth out the wrinkles.

10. Let Dry. Once dry take some fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand the edges to make sure it won’t lift.

11. Give it a light coat of acrylic sealer spray and you are done!



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75¢ Shelf Sitter Tutorial

75¢ Shelf Sitter Tutorial

75¢ Shelf Sitter Tutorial

by: Dezartisan

This is a super easy DIY project to make for under 75¢ and is great for craft shows and Christmas gifts! Most of the supplies I have already in my stock but the 8′ pine board cost $5.98 at Lowes and the napkins was $1 for a pack of 18, and I can get 2 blocks out of one napkin.


  • Matte Modge Pudge
  • Foam brush
  • Stickles or glitter glue
  • White paint
  • Stain of choice
  • Cocktail Napkin of your choice (this one came from Dollar Tree in 2018)
  • 2″ X 6″ x 8′ Pine Board
  • Fine grit sandpaper


  1. Cut down your pine board into 16 blocks approximately 5 7/8″ by 5 7/8″. (Double check your measurements)
  2. Sand the blocks and stain using color of choice. I used a waterbase stain called “Chocolate”
  3. Once dry, paint 1 side of the block with white paint. Doesn’t matter, acrylic, latex, chalk. Just make sure it is white. This is to ensure that the color of your napkin print “pops”. Be sure to let dry well.
  4. Unfold your napkin so that you get it down to the very thinest of layers. It should resemble tissue paper.
  5. Trim your napkin so that it overhangs your block on all side by at least 1/2″.
  6. Take a very very very thin layer of modge podge and paint your block on the white side. Very thin. Do not be heavy handed. Do not apply to any other part of the block.
  7. Quickly place and center your napkin on the block. Smoothing out the wrinkles. Be gentle. It can tear easy. As you can see, I have a few wrinkles, but I like that look.
  8. Let dry.
  9. Take your fine grit sandpaper and sand off the excess napkin. I like to give the corners an extra little sanding for appearance.
  10. Apply a second very very very thin layer of modge podge to the top of the image. Let dry for 24 hours.
  11. Embellish with stickles, bows, bells or whatever your heart desires.

The board and napkins cost me a total of $6.98 divided by 16 is 43¢ each, then I figure in extra for the paint, stain, sandpaper, etc and each block would cost less than 75¢ to make.

See Easy Peasy.



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How to create an Applique with HTV Vinyl

How to create an Applique with HTV Vinyl

How to create an Applique with HTV Vinyl

by: Digitail Designs



Heat and Bond Ultra

Fabric of your choice

HTV – I have only tried this with glitter HTV,

I’m not sure how well it works with regular HTV


  • Decide what size you want your design and cut a square of fabric & a square of Heat and Bond slightly larger than your design.
  • Press the Heat and Bond and the fabric together, making sure to leave the paper backing on the Heat and Bond.
  • Place the bonded fabric on your cutting mat.



  • Size the design in your software and move the outline off the mat.
  • Cut the interior par of the design from the fabric.


  • Now move the outline back to the mat and remove the inside part.
  • Don’t forget that you will need to mirror the outline if your design is not symmetrical



  • Mark the center of your shirt by folding and pressing to get a guide line.
  • Then remove the paper backing from the bonded fabric
  • line up your design and press for a few seconds.


  • Line up your HTV outline over the top of your fabric design and press for the time and temp needed for your brand of HTV.


Tada!!! Look at your beautiful HTV Applique !!!!











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Using DXF files in Silhouette Studio Basic Software

Using DXF files in Silhouette Studio Basic Software

Using DXF files in Silhouette Studio Basic Software

This video tutorial will show you how to use “.DXF” files in your basic edition of Silhouette Studio Software. It will show you how to “recolor” your DXF files and prepare them for Print and Cut.

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Cricut Maker and Silhouette Cameo 3 cut file comparison

Cricut Maker and Silhouette Cameo 3 cut file comparison

Cricut Maker and Silhouette Cameo 3 cut file comparison

This video will show you a side by side comparison of the exact same file cut with both the Cricut Maker and the Silhouette Cameo 3. If you would like to see a side by side comparison of the machines in action, please check out this POST


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Cricut Maker versus Silhouette Cameo 3 in action!

Cricut Maker versus Silhouette Cameo 3 in action!

Cricut Maker versus Silhouette Cameo 3 in action!

This video will show you both the Cricut Maker and the Silhouette Cameo 3 in action, cutting side by side the exact same file. If you would like to see a side by side comparison of the exact same file cut with both of these machines, check out this POST

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How to add glitter texture to text or a SVG Design using Silhouette Software

Glitter HTV Mockup

How to add glitter texture to text or a SVG Design using Silhouette Software

This video tutorial will show you how to add a glitter texture to text or a SVG design AND create a realistic looking glitter HTV on a T-shirt Mockup using Silhouette Software!



Glitter Textures that I used is: HERE

Candy Cane Design by Whimsicality Graphics is: HERE

Pinsetter Font in beginning of Video is: HERE

Glitter Textures


This post may contain AFFILIATE LINKS – it won’t cost you anymore, but I may receive a small commission for the referral.


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How to Create a mockup in Photoshop

How to Create a mockup in Photoshop

How to Create a mockup in Photoshop


This tutorial will show you how to add a SVG or PNG design to your mockup in Photoshop when using smart objects.

You can purchase this landscape wood sign mockup HERE and the Square wood sign mockup HERE 

You can purchase the design “Lake House” HERE

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How To Make a Floating Ornament

How To Make A Floating Ornament

How To Make A Floating Ornament

These are super easy and really fun to make! Adding a name or personalization really adds that finishing touch!


  1. Clear Glass ornaments – the ones I use are 66mm
  2. Transparency Film – this is pricey but this box has lasted me at least 5 years and I’m not even halfway through it yet and I do 100’s a year.
  3. Your Selected Design in Vinyl – I’ve linked a couple of Designs below that are perfect for Floating Ornaments!
  4. Ribbon, feathers, snow, glitter, bells or other embellishments

HINT: the instructions below are for 66mm ornaments. You can purchase my floating ornament template for 66mm, 70mm, 80mm and 100mm ornaments HERE


  1. Measure the diameter of your ornament and subtract 1/16″ – 1/8″ inch.
  2. Take this dimension and create a circle on your mat in your software – this is a guide for you so you know how large to make the design.
  3. Place your design on this circle – making sure it fits the dimensions. Delete your circle once you have the design sized.
  4. Cut and weed your design.
  5. Transfer it to the Transparency, being careful when burnishing it to not scratch the transparency.
  6. Once you have transferred your design, roll the transparency so that the design is on the inside of the roll, making sure that the roll will fit into the ornament hole.
  7. Now all you have to do is drop the transparency into the ornament and watch it “spring” open.
  8. Take a pair of tweezers and straighten it. Once you place the cap back on the ornament, twist the cap prongs so that they hold the transparency in place.
  9. If you need a tutorial on some adorable bow toppers – check out Rita’s tutorial HERE

Embellish with Ribbon, snow, confetti or use your imagination!


Floating Ornament Template for 66mm Round, 70mm Round, 80mm Disk and 100mm Round ornaments

VV304 Floating Ornament Template SVG DXF cut ready file


Floating Ornament bundles are $2.50 for a limited time

Fancy Snowflake Bundle

Christmas Floating Ornaments

This post may contain an affiliate link – it does not cost you anymore – but I may receive a small commission for the referral.

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There is nothing that finishes off an ornament as CUTE as a bow hanger for the top. For some of you, that is a challenge, as it was for me for a very long time until I finally figured out a way to make a very versatile, and ADORABLE bow that is just about as simple as tying your shoes!

The basic bow hangers are tied in a way that makes them extremely versatile. These bow hangers can be “filled out” with many different things. I have used pieces of boa, tulle, strips of ribbon, zig zag binding, pearls, and about anything else you could imagine BUT for the purpose of this tutorial I am going to show you how to make them using korker ribbon. If you don’t know what a korker is, it is a short strip of ribbon that is curled and then usually inserted into a bow. Korkers can be purchased on Etsy already made, but I make my own so that I can use whatever ribbon I have on hand and so that I can match it to my bow easier. To make a korker, you need the following:

  • Thin Ribbon (I use 1/8″ up to 0.5″)
  • 3/16″ wooden dowel (I purchased mine at Wal-mart)
  • 2 Mini clothes-pins (Also purchased at Wal-Mart)
  • Liquid starch (this comes in a pour bottle and is usually HIDDEN in the laundry section of your grocery store. In a pinch you can use a spray bottle with some corn starch added to warm water and shaken really well BUT doing it that way leaves a white, powdery haze on your ribbon and it isn’t as pretty)

STEP 1 – Place the end of your ribbon at one end of the dowel on a slight downward angle. Hold it in place with a clothes-pin.

STEP 2 – Wrap your ribbon tightly around your dowel with the edges touching but not overlapping all the way from one end to the other. When you get to the other end, secure the end of your ribbon onto the dowel with a clothes-pin. Then clip off the remainder of the ribbon.







STEP 3 – Spray your ribbon with liquid starch until it is saturated and bake in an oven preheated to 275 for about 20 minutes. I do several at once, laying them out on a cookie sheet. When they are done, let them cool COMPLETELY, unroll them gently, and then cut them into roughly 2.5″ sections. I usually heat seal the end of my korkers using a lighter applied to the end of the ribbon for a few seconds. This keeps them from unraveling on the ends.


Once your korkers are done, you are ready to make your bow hanger. For your bow hanger, you will need the following:

  • Ribbon of your choosing (I generally use about 0.5″ ribbon for my hangers but you could go a bit larger if you wanted to)
  • An ornament to put your ribbon on
  • Scissors

STEP 1 – Cut about a 18″ piece of ribbon and fold it in half.

STEP 2- Thread the 2 free ends of your ribbon through the ornament hook from front to back, leaving about a 3-4″ loop in the front which will become your hanger for your ornament.






STEP 3 – Grab your two free ends and fold them back towards the front of your ornament being sure to go leave your loop in the the CENTER of your two free ends. Then flip your loop hanger towards the back.











STEP 4 – Bring your free ends together at the front of your ornament and tie a simple knot as tight as you can. Tug on your loop gently while holding the knot you made to make sure your loop is standing up nice and pretty before you go to the next step.






STEP 5 – Lay your ornament to the side and grab your korkers that you are using for your bow. I like to lay mine out with several different colors/types of ribbon alternating. This helps ensure that don’t have all the same colors together in the finished bow. Once you have them laid out, gather them all together pinching them in the center to make a korker bouquet as shown.











STEP 6 – Grab your ornament with the other hand and place your korkers centered on your ornament with one free end of ribbon over the top and one coming up from the bottom of your korker bouquet. Hold them in place and tie a knot with the 2 free ends of ribbon securing your korkers to your ribbon hanger.











STEP 7 – You may have to play with your free ends to get them in the right position to tie a bow but once you do, simply tie a regular simple “shoestring style” bow with your free ends making sure to twist your ribbon around so that the printed side is on the outside if your ribbon is not the same on both sides. Once tied, play with your bow a little bit until it is centered over your korkers and looks how you want it to look. Snip off your ends to the length you want them to be at and heat seal the ends if desired.











If you’d like to use something other than korkers for your bow, simply do the same steps as above except add in your desired material instead of the korkers. You can also make a rather large bow by inserting criss-crossed wide ribbon instead of korkers. Here are some examples of bows I have made in the past using different inserts.











I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! Leave me a comment below if you have any questions or if you just wanna give me a shout out!

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How to set up your multi-color designs to cut by color to layer without registration marks

How to set up your multi-color designs to cut by color to layer without registration marks

This video is a follow up to a previous video on how to layer a multi-color design without registration marks. This video will show you how to set it up in your Cricut Design Space or Silhouette Studio software. At the end of this post will be a link to the same design used in the video to download for free in case you want to follow along at the same time.



FREE Design: V100C Today is the perfect day

Previous Video can be viewed here



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DIY Chalk Paint Recipe for painted and distressed wood signs


DIY Chalk Paint Recipe


I love making wood signs, and have had paint envy as I ooh and ahh over all the different and beautiful painted signs I have seen in our Facebook group . But, chalk paint can be a bit pricey – especially if you have a request for a color palette that is not common, or if you are like me, need to collect every possible color. One of our group members sent me a message explaining to me how she makes her own chalk paint and shared her “recipe” with me. With her permission, I have written it up to share with all of you!

It’s simple actually. Very few ingredients and takes minimal time. My kind of DIY project! First I want to share the project I created with my DIY paint. I have to admit, I was quite impressed with the ease of mixing it and how well it painted. The paint dried quickly and on a sample board I used, I was able to wet distress with ease. My next concern was if the paint would lift with the stencil and again, it worked like a charm! This is a an easy way to grow a collection of chalk paint colors on a budget!

Before I get to the “recipe” – I want to send out props to Sparkal Designs for a great design SD272, this was actually perfect for stenciling and cut like a dream!


8 oz of latex paint – I used a Valspar color Sample that cost around $3. The Color I used is 772889 Schoolboy Blue

2 and 1/2 TBS Plaster of Paris – available at Lowes for around $7 (This goes a very very long way)

1 and 1/2 TBS cold water


Pour cold water into Plaster of Paris. Mix until completely smooth – smashing any bits and pieces. Once mix smooth – it should have the consistency of yogurt, pour paint into mixture and mix well. I have mine stored in a mason jar. I’m heavy handed when I paint, so I try to remember the saying “Less is More” when it comes to painting. I practically dry my brush on a towel before I let it hit my project that I’m painting. It seems like a waste of paint, but doing it this way I get the most control.

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Galvanized Steel Tutorial


Have you ever stepped into Hobby Lobby or Michaels and seen there galvanized steel signs? They are all the trend, but they are SO very easy to create yourself with tools that I'm sure you already own! So let's get started!

Tools & Supplies Needed

Galv Steel Roll

Galvanized Steel (not aluminum) – I found a roll of it at Home Depot.

I like the 20” wide, but it does come in various widths. Be sure to get gauge 28 or higher as it is thinner and easier to cut to size. I have an industrial guillotine cutter that makes it easy. If you don’t have access to a cutter, you might want to purchase pieces that are cut to the size you need.

Frame – your choice of size. I like these from Hobby Lobby that are very inexpensive.

The 11 x 14 is $5.99 and Hobby Lobby put them on 1⁄2 price often.


Heavy gloves, Flat Head Screwdriver and another piece of cardboard or chipboard the size of the interior of the frame.

The metal is extremely sharp. Definitely wear some heavy gloves when handling the metal.



With a flat head screwdriver, bend the tabs up to release the backing.



Remove the Cardboard backing and set it aside. You will need it after you insert the metal. Carefully remove the glass. You will not use it for this project, but I always keep mine for upcoming projects.



Decide which way you are going to insert the metal into your frame. Mine still has a curve to it so I put the “bowed” side to the back of the frame. BE SURE TO WEAR YOUR GLOVES!



Gently push the metal into the frame, easing in the curve (if you have one). Layer the piece of cardboard that came with the frame and then the piece you cut. With the flat head screwdriver, bend the tabs back down to hold all of the pieces in.



I apply a very small amount of soft wax to the WOOD portion of the frame to give it a nice look. If you use a more expensive frame, this may not be needed. I use Annie Sloan Soft Wax – Clear - because it is what I have in my stash.

That's it! It's super easy and creates a fabulous look! You can paint the signs or just add vinyl!

Download PDF Tutorial