I purchased the paper at Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Lazertran-Waterslide-Decal-Paper-Inkjet/dp/B001LUF54E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538773518&sr=8-2&keywords=lazertran+waterslide+decal+paper+lazertran+for+inkjet
You’ve all seen the wood sign craze! Framed, unframed, painted etc. But what if you don’t have the ability to do framed signs or you just haven’t gotten the hang of not getting the dreaded bleed lines when painting a stencil. Well here is a quick tutorial on how you can achieve this look and bonus, it’s fairly inexpensive to do!
Wood Block sanded
White tissue paper – the kind you stuff in a gift bag
Acrylic Sealer Spray
Printer – any inkjet
Fine grit sandpaper
SVG Design of your choice. I used VV139 – you can find it HERE
Sand your wood block
For this project, I wanted the wood grain to show, so I squirted the acrylic paint onto a baby wipe and rubbed it into the wood going with the grain. You can also just paint the wood block completely if you prefer a less transparent look. Let dry completely.
While this is drying – look through your hoard of designs for one that will fit the size of your wood block.
Cut a piece of tissue paper larger than a 8 1/2″ x 11″ cardstock.
5. Fold the tissue paper over the cardstock nice and tight – making sure that edges will not lift up when running through a printer. I used Washi tape here so you could see how I taped it.
6. Next you will want to take your design and place a box around it the same size as your wood block. Make the box a very light grey – just enough that you can see it. Print the design using the standard settings of your printer.
7. Once printed carefully remove the tissue paper from the cardstock and cut out on the grey lines your design.
8. Let the tissue paper print dry completely before the next step. THIS IS IMPERATIVE.
9. Paint the wood block with a very very very thin layer of modge podge and immediately place your design on top. Carefully smooth out the wrinkles.
10. Let Dry. Once dry take some fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand the edges to make sure it won’t lift.
11. Give it a light coat of acrylic sealer spray and you are done!
This is a super easy DIY project to make for under 75¢ and is great for craft shows and Christmas gifts! Most of the supplies I have already in my stock but the 8′ pine board cost $5.98 at Lowes and the napkins was $1 for a pack of 18, and I can get 2 blocks out of one napkin.
Matte Modge Pudge
Stickles or glitter glue
Stain of choice
Cocktail Napkin of your choice (this one came from Dollar Tree in 2018)
2″ X 6″ x 8′ Pine Board
Fine grit sandpaper
Cut down your pine board into 16 blocks approximately 5 7/8″ by 5 7/8″. (Double check your measurements)
Sand the blocks and stain using color of choice. I used a waterbase stain called “Chocolate”
Once dry, paint 1 side of the block with white paint. Doesn’t matter, acrylic, latex, chalk. Just make sure it is white. This is to ensure that the color of your napkin print “pops”. Be sure to let dry well.
Unfold your napkin so that you get it down to the very thinest of layers. It should resemble tissue paper.
Trim your napkin so that it overhangs your block on all side by at least 1/2″.
Take a very very very thin layer of modge podge and paint your block on the white side. Very thin. Do not be heavy handed. Do not apply to any other part of the block.
Quickly place and center your napkin on the block. Smoothing out the wrinkles. Be gentle. It can tear easy. As you can see, I have a few wrinkles, but I like that look.
Take your fine grit sandpaper and sand off the excess napkin. I like to give the corners an extra little sanding for appearance.
Apply a second very very very thin layer of modge podge to the top of the image. Let dry for 24 hours.
Embellish with stickles, bows, bells or whatever your heart desires.
The board and napkins cost me a total of $6.98 divided by 16 is 43¢ each, then I figure in extra for the paint, stain, sandpaper, etc and each block would cost less than 75¢ to make.
This video tutorial will show you how to upload and “IMAGE” to Cricut Design Space. You will actually be uploading a SVG file. Look for your file to have the following information at the end of the file name “.SVG”
Cricut Maker and Silhouette Cameo 3 cut file comparison
This video will show you a side by side comparison of the exact same file cut with both the Cricut Maker and the Silhouette Cameo 3. If you would like to see a side by side comparison of the machines in action, please check out this POST
This video will show you both the Cricut Maker and the Silhouette Cameo 3 in action, cutting side by side the exact same file. If you would like to see a side by side comparison of the exact same file cut with both of these machines, check out this POST
This video is a follow up to a previous video on how to layer a multi-color design without registration marks. This video will show you how to set it up in your Cricut Design Space or Silhouette Studio software. At the end of this post will be a link to the same design used in the video to download for free in case you want to follow along at the same time.
I love making wood signs, and have had paint envy as I ooh and ahh over all the different and beautiful painted signs I have seen in our Facebook group . But, chalk paint can be a bit pricey – especially if you have a request for a color palette that is not common, or if you are like me, need to collect every possible color. One of our group members sent me a message explaining to me how she makes her own chalk paint and shared her “recipe” with me. With her permission, I have written it up to share with all of you!
It’s simple actually. Very few ingredients and takes minimal time. My kind of DIY project! First I want to share the project I created with my DIY paint. I have to admit, I was quite impressed with the ease of mixing it and how well it painted. The paint dried quickly and on a sample board I used, I was able to wet distress with ease. My next concern was if the paint would lift with the stencil and again, it worked like a charm! This is a an easy way to grow a collection of chalk paint colors on a budget!
Before I get to the “recipe” – I want to send out props to Sparkal Designs for a great design SD272, this was actually perfect for stenciling and cut like a dream!
Pour cold water into Plaster of Paris. Mix until completely smooth – smashing any bits and pieces. Once mix smooth – it should have the consistency of yogurt, pour paint into mixture and mix well. I have mine stored in a mason jar. I’m heavy handed when I paint, so I try to remember the saying “Less is More” when it comes to painting. I practically dry my brush on a towel before I let it hit my project that I’m painting. It seems like a waste of paint, but doing it this way I get the most control.
Have you ever stepped into Hobby Lobby or Michaels and seen there galvanized steel signs? They are all the trend, but they are SO very easy to create yourself with tools that I'm sure you already own! So let's get started!
Tools & Supplies Needed
Galvanized Steel (not aluminum) – I found a roll of it at Home Depot.
I like the 20” wide, but it does come in various widths. Be sure to get gauge 28 or higher as it is thinner and easier to cut to size. I have an industrial guillotine cutter that makes it easy. If you don’t have access to a cutter, you might want to purchase pieces that are cut to the size you need.
Frame – your choice of size. I like these from Hobby Lobby that are very inexpensive.
Heavy gloves, Flat Head Screwdriver and another piece of cardboard or chipboard the size of the interior of the frame.
The metal is extremely sharp. Definitely wear some heavy gloves when handling the metal.
With a flat head screwdriver, bend the tabs up to release the backing.
Remove the Cardboard backing and set it aside. You will need it after you insert the metal. Carefully remove the glass. You will not use it for this project, but I always keep mine for upcoming projects.
Decide which way you are going to insert the metal into your frame. Mine still has a curve to it so I put the “bowed” side to the back of the frame. BE SURE TO WEAR YOUR GLOVES!
Gently push the metal into the frame, easing in the curve (if you have one). Layer the piece of cardboard that came with the frame and then the piece you cut. With the flat head screwdriver, bend the tabs back down to hold all of the pieces in.
I apply a very small amount of soft wax to the WOOD portion of the frame to give it a nice look. If you use a more expensive frame, this may not be needed. I use Annie Sloan Soft Wax – Clear - because it is what I have in my stash.
That's it! It's super easy and creates a fabulous look! You can paint the signs or just add vinyl!
First I want to explain the basic difference between the two types of vinyl that I use and the purpose of each. To be clear, there are many brands of vinyl available to the consumer, but I prefer Oracal, which is the leading manufacturer of pressure-sensitive films. My choice of vinyl supplier is US Cutter.
Oracal 631 is a matte finish calendered vinyl that is commonly used for home decor. Most notably used for wall decals and wall graphics. It has a matte surface that suppresses unwanted reflection, giving your graphic and or text a “painted” look.It is removable, but not reusable. It comes in a variety of colors and has a life span of approximately 3 years, but this can vary depending on the color chosen.
Oracal 651 is a gloss finish calendered vinyl that is used mostly for signage, car decals and outdoor applications. It is also removable but not reusable. This vinyl is meant to “weather” the outdoor elements, but depending on the extremes, the weather can affect the longevity of the vinyl. Its average lifespan is approximately 5 years, again dependent on colors and weather conditions.
Now the basics things you should know and do when applying vinyl decals.
Use quality vinyl such as Oracal AND
Choose the appropriate vinyl for your intended use.
Clean the surface you are applying the vinyl to. If you are applying to walls, a freshly painted surface needs to cure for 3 weeks.
Invest in a squeegee. You can’t use a “credit card” to rub your decal onto your surface and expect it to really, REALLY stick to your surface. You might be able to get away with using a credit card for smaller, car decals, but not for wall decals.
I hope this answers the questions on the two main types of vinyl and what is necessary in the application process.